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Slightly Twisted Beanie – Free Pattern

NOTE: This page contains affiliate links. Please read the disclaimer on my Contact Page. Thanks!

I absolutely love this crochet hat! The spiral is fun and a clever way to hide the seam. It’s virtually invisible. This is definitely a project you could work up in a weekend. What a perfect hat for you or for gifts this year! The full pattern is available right here in this blog post.

This pattern is also available as an ad-free printable pdf in my shop.

Slightly Twisted Beanie

The Inspiration

After making the Slightly Twisted Tote, I had the thought that this stitch would make a really cute hat. It took a couple of tries to get it just right, but I’m so happy with the result. Plus it gave me an excuse to use my faux fur pom poms. Win-win!

The Tutorials

Don’t forget to check out the video tutorial to help guide you through making this crochet beanie. It’s available on my YouTube Channel, or you can just watch it below. This video will break the steps down enough that I’m confident a beginner could work their way through this hat.

Left-handed? Check out the left-handed version!

The Yarn

I have a confession. I have had a bit of thing for Lion Brand’s Heartland Yarn lately. It’s pretty, it’s inexpensive, and I can throw it in a washing machine. I’m all about that last part…well all those parts. It’s an acrylic yarn, although you can use any fiber that your little heart desires. The colors I settled on for the pictured beanie hats were Congaree (blue-green) and Hot Springs (purple). They’re just as cute in person!

Of course you can use any worsted weight yarn you would like.  Yarns do vary, even within the same category.  A tip for finding a comparable yarn is to check the yds/g (or m/g).  If they’re pretty close, they should be comparable. The Heartland yarn I used to design the pattern is about 1.77 yds per g (251 yds/142g = 1.77).

You could experiment with fibers as well. Or try an ombre yarn for color variation. Maybe use a second color for the textured part? Have fun with it!

Products used in video:
Yarn: Lion Brand Heartland (Congaree)
Hooks: Clover Amour Hooks
4″ Faux Fur Pom Pom

The Pattern

Get the ad-free printable PDF
Pin it on Pinterest
Add to your Ravelry queue

Materials Needed

Worsted Weight yarn (200yds/180m)
*Pictured bag: Lion Brand Heartland (Congaree)
4″ Pom Pom
Hooks: H/8 5.00mm; I/9 5.50mm
Stitch Markers (3)
Yarn Needle
Scissors

Gauge & Finished Measurements

Band – 2” wide; 4”=12 rows
Hat – 4” = 7 rnds; 12 sts

Sizes

One size – Adult
Adjust size by subtracting rows of band in multiples of 3. Reduce or add repeat in rnds, 1 for every 3 rows.

Abbreviations

rnd = round
yo = yarn over
ch = chain(s)
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
FPtr = front post treble
( ) = stitch count
[ ] = repeating section

Special Stitches

Dc-FPtr tog: Yo, insert hook in next st & pull up a loop. Yo, pull through 2 loops. You should have 2 loops on the hook. Yo twice, skip next 2 stitches & insert hook from front to back to front around next stitch in rnd below. Yo and draw up a loop. [Yo, pull through 2 loops on hook.] 2 times. You should have 3 loops on the hook. Yo, pull through all 3 loops. Stitch will be raised.
Dc2tog: Yo, insert hook in next & pull up a loop. Yo, pull through 2 loops. You should have 2 loops on the hook. Yo, insert hook in next & pull up a loop. Yo, pull through 2 loops. Yo, pull through all 3 loops.

Instructions:  **US Terms**
(UK Terms available in Printable PDF )

NOTE: The hat is created from the bottom up. Row 1-60 will create the band. Leave a 10” tail before chain for sewing.

Using H/8 5.00mm hook, Ch 10.

ROW 1: 1st 2 ch do not count as a st. Hdc in 3rd ch from hook. Hdc in each ch across. Turn. (8 sts)

ROW 2: Ch 2. Does not count as a st. Working in 3rd loop of hdc from previous row, hdc in each st across. Turn. (8 sts)

ROW 3-60: Repeat Row 2.

Note: Band should wrap comfortably around your head. Add or remove rows in multiples of 3 for fit. Adjust your stitches for rounds below to match your adjustments.

Drop working yarn. Do not fasten off.

Using 10” tail, sew ends of band together. Sew the base chain to the 3rd loops of the hdc of row 60.

Pick up working yarn using I/9 (5.50mm) hook.

RND 1: Ch 2. Hdc in each row around. Join with sl st. (60 sts)

Note: If making the band a different color than the main hat, change colors here.

RND 2: Ch 2. Does not count as a st throughout. Working into 3rd loop of hdc, dc in each st around. Join with sl st. (60 sts)

RND 3-12: Ch 2. [Dc-FPtrtog. Dc into each of skipped sts.] 20 times. Join with sl st. (60 sts)

Note: If you want your beanie to be more slouchy, add a few extra repeat rounds here.

RND 13: Ch 2. [Dc-FPtrtog. Dc2tog over skipped sts.] 20 times. Join with sl st. (40 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Using a yarn needle, insert from front to back (whip stitch) in every other stitch. Pull to cinch closed. Add pom pom if desired.

Weave in ends.

Copyright ©2021, Heather’s Craft Corner. All Rights Reserved.

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Slightly Twisted Tote – Free Pattern

NOTE: This page contains affiliate links. Please read the disclaimer on my Contact Page. Thanks!

A beautiful crochet tote bag for trips to the store, farmers market, library, or anywhere else you’re spending your day, the Slightly Twisted Tote works up quickly in a spiraling, raised texture that is to die for. The full pattern is available here in this blog post.

This pattern is also available as an ad-free printable pdf in my shop.

The Inspiration

After making the Day at the Market Bag, I wanted to make another bag that was a little thicker stitched. Looking at the raised stitches I thought, “How hard would it be to make a spiral?” Turns out, not that hard. The most difficult part would be figuring out what to call the stitch used because I’d never used one in a pattern. Eventually, the internet came through and the stitch now has a name.

The Slightly Twisted Tote is a little less stretchy that the Day at the Market Bag, which is exactly what I was going for. I absolutely love how it turned out! It’s a perfect addition to your reusable collection of totes and bags.

The Tutorials

I’m not going to lie, this tutorial is long. The full tutorial is an hour. That’s a lot of video. So, while I’m still going to release the video in its full glory, I’m also going to release it as a series with 3 parts. You can choose how you want to go about it.

Left-handed? Check out the left-handed version HERE!

The Yarn

The red color of this bag is amazing! Stunning, really. I was looking forward to finding a use for it.  I created this bag using Lion Brand’s Heartland yarn.  The yarn comes in many beautiful shades.  For this bag, I settled on Redwood. This is an inexpensive acrylic yarn with a nice sheen.  I love how it makes the texture pop even though it’s a darker shade.  The color is not completely solid, but heathered.  It adds so much to the look!  It also has a wonderful, soft feel to it and great drape.  Another perk is that it washes well.

Of course you can use any worsted weight yarn you would like.  Yarns do vary, even within the same category.  A tip for finding a comparable yarn is to check the yds/g (or m/g).  If they’re pretty close, they should be comparable. The Heartland yarn I used to design the pattern, it is about 1.77 yds per g (251 yds/142g = 1.77).

You could experiment with fibers as well.  Or try an ombre yarn for color variation.  Maybe use a second color for the textured part?  Have fun with it!

Products used in video:
Yarn: Lion Brand Heartland (Redwood)
Hooks: Clover Amour Hooks

The Pattern

Get the ad-free printable PDF HERE.
Pin it on Pinterest HERE.
Add to your Ravelry queue HERE.

Materials Needed

Worsted Weight yarn (625yds/475m)
*Pictured bag: Lion Brand Heartland (Redwood)
Hook: I/9 5.50mm
Stitch Markers (5)
Yarn Needle
Scissors

Gauge & Finished Measurements

Gauge is not critical for this pattern.  The bag pictured was 4” = 16 sts / 16 rows (Base)  and 4” = 14 sts / 7 rows (Textured).

Finished Measurements will depend on gauge.  The bag pictured measures about 14.5” (H) x 14” (W) when lying flat, not including the handles.

Abbreviations

yo = yarn over
ch = chain
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
FPtr = front post treble crochet
Dc-FPtr tog = double crochet/front post treble together

Special Stitches

Dc-FPtr tog: Yo, insert hook in next st & pull up a loop. Yo, pull through 2 loops. You should have 2 loops on the hook. Yo twice, skip next 2 stitches & insert hook from front to back to front around next stitch in rnd below. Yo and draw up a loop. [Yo, draw through 2 loops on hook.] 2 times. You should have 3 loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through all 3 loops. Stitch will be raised.

Invisible Fasten Off: At the end of the round cut yarn leaving a 4-5” tail. Pull loop until cut end is drawn completely through. Thread cut end through yarn needle. In the next stitch, insert needle from the back and through both loops. Pull yarn through completely, being careful not to pull too tightly. Insert needle in the middle of the previous stitch and under front bar of the stitch. Pull through completely.

Instructions:  **US Terms**
(UK Terms available in Printable PDF)

NOTE: Pattern is worked bottom-up in the round.

Ch 34

Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch, 2 sc. Sc in each of next 31 ch. 3 sc in end ch. Working down other side, sc in each of next 31 ch. Do not join. Do not turn. (68 sts)

Rnd 2: Working in a continuous round, sc in 1st st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 31 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 31 sts. 2 sc in last st. (72 sts)

Rnd 3: Sc in 1st st. 2 sc in each of next 2 sts. Sc in each of next 31 sts. 2 sc in each of next 2 sts. Sc in next st. 2 sc in each of next 2 sts. Sc in each of next 31 sts. 2 sc in each of next 2 sts. (80 sts)

Rnd 4: Sc in 1st st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 33 sts. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next st.] 4 times. Sc in each of next 32 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in last st. (88 sts)

Rnd 5: Sc in 1st st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 37 sts. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next st.] 4 times. Sc in each of next 36 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in last st. (96 sts)

Rnd 6: Sc in each of 1st 2 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 39 sts. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next st.] 2 times. Sc in next st. [Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st.] 2 times. Sc in each of next 39 sts. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next st.] 2 times. (104 sts)

Rnd 7: Sc in each of 1st 3 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 41 sts. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next st.] 2 times. Sc in each of next 3 sts. [Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st.] 2 times. Sc in each of next 41 sts. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next st.] 2 times. Sc in last st. (112 sts)

Rnd 8: Sc in each of 1st 4 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 43 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 7 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 43 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 3 sts. (120 sts)

Rnd 9: Sl st in each st around. (120 sts)

Rnd 10: Working around both sl st from Rnd 9 and sc from Rnd 8, sc in each st around. (120 sts)

Rnd 11-16: Sc in each st around. (120sts)

Rnd 17: Sc in each st around. Add stitches as needed to reach center of the side of the bag, where the fold will be. Join with a sl st. (120 sts)

Rnd 18: Ch 2. Does not count as st. Dc in each st around. Join with a sl st. (120 sts)

Rnd 19: Ch 2. Does not count as st. [Dc-Fptr tog in next st. Dc in each of 2 skipped sts.] 40 times. Join with sl st. (120 sts)

Rnd 20-37: Repeat rnd 19 working the FPtr around the FPtr from the rnd below. This creates a continuous spiral look of the bag.

Rnd 38: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Do not join. (120 sts)

Rnd 39-42: Working in a continuous rnd, sc in each st around. (120 sts)
Lay bag flat. Center last stitch of last round in fold. You may need to add or subtract sts.

Rnd 43: Sc in 1st 15 sts. Ch 70. Skip next 30 sts. Sc in each of next 30 sts. Ch 70. Skip next 30 sts. Sc in each of last 15 sts. (200 sts)

Rnd 44: Sc in 1st 15 sts. Sc in back loop of each of next 70 ch. Sc in each of next 30 sts. Sc in back loop of each of next 70 ch. Sc in each of last 15 sts. (200 sts)

Rnd 45-49: Sc in each st around. (200 sts)

Join with sl st.
Fasten off using Invisible Fasten Off.
Weave in ends.

Copyright ©2021, Heather’s Craft Corner. All Rights Reserved.

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Day at the Market Bag – Free Pattern

NOTE: This page contains affiliate links. Please read the disclaimer on my Contact Page. Thanks!

An easy crochet bag for trips to the farmers market or anywhere else you’re spending your day, the Day at the Market Bag works up quickly and has a delightful texture that is surprisingly easy to create. The pattern is available here on this blog post.

This pattern is also available as an ad-free printable pdf in my shop.

The Inspiration

For several years I’ve wanted to start going to farmers markets regularly.  I always would forget and, before I knew it, the season was over.  This year I’ve done much better and have now experienced the world’s best raspberry jalapeño jam thanks to a local wizard.

While buying your local wares, it’s nice to have somewhere to put them.  I hate disposable plastic bags.  So, I decided I needed a flexible market bag that could handle a variety of items of various shapes and sizes.

The Day at the Market Bag fits that need!  I wanted the bag to be quick to work up, light and airy, but without gaping holes.  This bag is just that.  It’s light-weight with a beautiful texture, but is stitched tight enough to keep its contents private.  It can also easily be worked up over a relaxing weekend.

The Yarn

I’ve always been partial to the deeper, more jeweled tones.  I created this bag using Lion Brand’s Heartland yarn.  The yarn comes in many beautiful shades.  For this bag, I settled on Cuyahoga Valley.  This is an inexpensive acrylic yarn with a nice sheen.  I love how it makes the texture pop even though it’s a darker shade.  The color is not completely solid, but heathered.  It adds so much to the look!  It also has a wonderful, soft feel to it and great drape.  Another perk is that it washes well.

Of course you can use any worsted weight yarn you would like.  Yarns do vary, even within the same category.  A tip for finding a comparable yarn is to check the yds/g (or m/g).  If they’re pretty close, they should be comparable. 
The Heartland yarn I used to design the pattern, it is about 1.77 yds per g (251 yds/142g = 1.77).

You could experiment with fibers as well.  Or try an ombre yarn for color variation.  Many of my testers used a second color for the textured part.  Have fun with it!

Left-handed? Check out the left-handed version HERE!

Products used in video:
Yarn: Lion Brand Heartland (Cuyahoga Valley)
Hooks: Clover Amour Hooks

The Pattern

Get the ad-free printable PDF HERE.
Pin this pattern to your Pinterest Board HERE.
Add to your Ravelry queue HERE.

Materials Needed

Worsted Weight yarn (450yds/415m)
*Pictured bag: Lion Brand Heartland (Cuyahoga Valley)
Hooks: I/9 5.50mm & H/8 5.00mm
Stitch Markers
Yarn Needle
Scissors

Gauge & Finished Measurements

Gauge is not critical for this pattern.  The bag pictured was 4” = 17 sts / 20 rows (Base)  and 4” = 15 sts / 8 rows (Textured).

Finished Measurements will depend on gauge.  The bag pictured measures about 14.5” (H) x 14” (W) when lying flat, not including the handles.

Abbreviations

yo = yarn over
ch = chain
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
FPtr = front post treble crochet

Special Stitches

FPtr: Yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around post of corresponding stitch below. Yo and draw up a loop. [Yo, draw through 2 loops on hook.] 3 times. Stitch will be raised.

Invisible Fasten Off: At the end of the round cut yarn leaving a 4-5” tail. Pull loop until cut end is drawn completely through. Thread cut end through yarn needle.  In the next stitch, insert needle from the back and through both loops. Pull yarn through completely, being careful not to pull too tightly.  Insert needle in the middle of the previous stitch and under front bar of the stitch.  Pull through completely.

Instructions:  **US Terms**
(UK Terms available in Printable PDF)

NOTE: Pattern is worked bottom-up in the round.

Start with I/9 (5.50mm) Hook

Ch 31

Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch, sc in each of the next 29 ch. 3 sc in end ch. Working down the other side, sc in each of next 28 sts. 2 sc in last ch. Do not join. Do not turn. (62 sts)

Rnd 2: Working in a continuous round, 2 sc in 1st st. Sc in each of next 28 sts. 2 sc in each of next 3 sts. Sc in each of next 28 sts. 2 sc in each of last 2 sts. (68 sts)

Rnd 3: 2 sc in 1st st. Sc in each of next 30 sts. 2 sc in each of next 4 sts. Sc in each of next 30 sts. 2 sc in each of last 3 sts. (76 sts)

Rnd 4: 2 sc in 1st st. Sc in each of next 32 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in each of next 2 sts. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 32 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in each of next 2 sts. Sc in last st. (84 sts)

Rnd 5: Sc in 1st st. Sc in each of next 35 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in each of next 2 sts. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 36 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in each of next 2 sts. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. (92 sts)

Rnd 6: Sc in 1st st. Sc in each of next 36 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 2 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 38 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 2 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in last st. (100 sts)

Rnd 7: Sc in 1st st.  Sc in each of next 38 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 2 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 42 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 2 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of last 3 sts. (108 sts)

Rnd 8-15: Sc in each st around. (108 sts)

Rnd 16: Sc in each st around. Join with a sl st. (108 sts)

Switch to H/8 (5.00mm) Hook

Rnd 17: Ch 2. Does not count as st. Dc in each st around. Join with sl st. (108 sts)

Rnd 18: Ch 2. Does not count as st. [FPtr in next st. Dc in next st.] 54 times. Join with sl st. (108 sts)

Rnd 19: Ch 2. Does not count as st. [Dc in next st. FPtr in next st.] 54 times. Join with sl st. (108 sts)

Rnd 20-33: Repeat rows 18-19.

Switch to I/9 (5.50mm) Hook

Rnd 34: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Do not join. (108 sts)

Rnd 35-37: Working in a continuous rnd, sc in each st around. (108 sts)

Rnd 38: Sc in 1st 14 sts. Ch 50. Skip next 20 sts. Sc in each of next 34 sts. Ch 50. Skip next 20 sts. Sc in each of last 20 sts. (168 sts)

Rnd 39: Sc in 1st 14 sts. Sc in each of next 50 ch. Sc in each of next 34 sts. Sc in each of next 50 ch. Sc in each of last 20 sts. (168 sts)

Rnd 40-43: Sc in each st around. (168 sts)

Join with sl st.
Fasten off using Invisible Fasten Off.
Weave in ends.

Copyright ©2020, Heather’s Craft Corner. All Rights Reserved.

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Crochet Basics – Lesson 4: Double Crochet (dc) / UK Treble Crochet (tr)

There is a lot you can do with the double crochet, and here’s a tutorial to teach you how to make this basic stitch. And for all of you using UK terminology, we’re talking about the treble crochet. (Click here for a guide on US / UK Terms)

Just in case you missed one, here’s a list of the videos in the Crochet Basic Series:
Lesson 1: Choosing Your Yarn & Hook
Lesson 2: Slip Knot and Base Chain
Lesson 3: Single Crochet (sc) / UK Double Crochet (dc)
Lesson 4: Double Crochet (dc) / UK Treble Crochet (tr)

In Lesson 4: Double Crochet (dc), I’ll walk you through step-by-step on how to make the double crochet. Don’t underestimate this stitch. This stitch is often the basis of more complicated, decorative stitches. This bite-sized lesson will help you get started.

Left-handed? Gotcha covered! Each of my tutorials will also have a left-handed version because, even though they’re a little backwards, lefties are people too.

If you like these videos, please support my YouTube channel by Subscribing. Also liking or leaving a comment will help me with the mysterious YouTube algorithm as well. Thanks!

Happy crocheting!
Heather

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Crochet Basics – Lesson 3: Single Crochet (sc) / UK Double Crochet (dc)

The single crochet is one of the most basic stitches in the art of crochet. And for all of you using UK terminology, we’re talking about the double crochet. (Click here for a guide on US / UK Terms)

Just in case you missed one, here’s a list of the videos in the Crochet Basic Series:
Lesson 1: Choosing Your Yarn & Hook
Lesson 2: Slip Knot and Base Chain
Lesson 3: Single Crochet (sc) / UK Double Crochet (dc)
Lesson 4: Double Crochet (dc) / UK Treble Crochet (tr)

In Lesson 3: Single Crochet (sc), I’ll walk you through step-by-step on how to make the single crochet. Don’t underestimate this stitch. There are so many variations you can do with the single crochet. This bite-sized lesson will help you get started.

Left-handed? Gotcha covered! Each of my tutorials will also have a left-handed version because, even though they’re a little backwards, lefties are people too.

If you like these videos, please support my YouTube channel by Subscribing. Also liking or leaving a comment will help me with the mysterious YouTube algorithm as well. Thanks!

Happy crocheting!
Heather

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US Terms vs UK Terms in Crochet

I’m sure this has happened to you. You get your hands on the pattern for a beautiful crochet project. You start crocheting only to have it not look anything like the picture. Then you notice this little notation at the top of the pattern. It’s using the wrong terminology!

This is a frustrating situation, especially if you’re paying for a pattern. This is one of the reasons I make both US Terms and UK Terms available with any pattern purchase in my shop. That way, you don’t have to worry if you bought the correct version of the pattern. The answer will always be yes!

Since not everyone does that, I have created this conversion chart to help you navigate through US and UK Terminology for any of those cute patterns that you just have to try. If you prefer a PDF, just click the download link below the image.

Happy Crocheting!
Heather

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Crochet Basics – Lesson 2: Slip Knot and Base Chain

Every project needs a good foundation. The Crochet Basics series is designed for the absolute beginner. It’s as if you looked at me and said, “I have absolutely no knowledge about crochet. Aaaaand go!” Challenge accepted. Let’s get started.

Crochet Basics Videos:
Lesson 1: Choosing Your Yarn & Hook
Lesson 2: Slip Knot and Base Chain
Lesson 3: Single Crochet (sc) / UK Double Crochet (dc)
Lesson 4: Double Crochet (dc) / UK Treble Crochet (tr)

In Lesson 2: Slip Knot and Base Chain, I’ll walk you through step-by-step on how to make a slip knot and a base chain. It sounds simple, but if you’re just starting out it can actually be quite challenging. This bite-sized lesson will help you get started.

Left-handed? Gotcha covered! Each of my tutorials will also have a left-handed version because, even though they’re a little backwards, lefties are people too.

If you like these videos, please support my YouTube channel by Subscribing. Also liking or leaving a comment will help me with the mysterious YouTube algorithm as well. Thanks!

Happy crocheting!
Heather

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Basic Crochet Video Tutorial Series

Everyone who crochets had to start with the very basics. What better series to help start my YouTube channel than creating a Crochet Basics Series? I’m proud to announce the first video in the series, Lesson 1: Choosing Your Yarn & Hook.

Crochet Basics Videos:
Lesson 1: Choosing Your Yarn & Hook
Lesson 2: Slip Knot and Base Chain
Lesson 3: Single Crochet (sc) / UK Double Crochet (dc)
Lesson 4: Double Crochet (dc) / UK Treble Crochet (tr)

Lesson 1: Choosing Your Yarn & Hook is the foundation to start crocheting. In the video, we will go over selecting your first yarn and hook, how to hold your yarn and hook, and how to make a slip knot and base chain. Like most things, if you don’t have a good foundation, your end result will be less than desirable. Without further ramblings, here it is:

I hope you find these videos helpful! Remember to visit the Heather’s Craft Corner YouTube Channel and subscribe. Lesson 2 will be here next week! Also, please like or comment. 🙂

Happy Crocheting!
Heather

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Crochet Hooks: Millimeters, Letters, and Numbers…Oh MY!

Why do crochet hooks have so many ways to describe their sizes?

Much like shoes and clothing, countries developed their own sizing methods for crochet hooks independent of one another. So now we get to try to decipher this code of sizing that we’ve been left with. Not to worry! I’ve created a chart using the most common sizing (at least for English speakers). To download a pdf of the chart, click the link below the image.

Happy Crocheting!
Heather

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My First Ever Tutorial Video!

It’s here! It’s finally here!

This has been a long time in the making. I have wanted to create tutorial videos for years but could never seem to find the time. With the craziness of this year, I was home a lot more and made the time to get moving on my YouTube channel.

Over the years I’ve received requests for different tutorial videos, but none have come close to how often I’ve been asked to do this one. Even though there are other videos out there on this stitch, there have been not been helpful ones that show it done with a chunky yarn. So, here’s the Chunky Celtic Weave Tutorial video:

Now, not everyone is right-handed. Following a right-handed video as a left-handed person adds to the already raw frustration of living in a right-handed world. Not to worry, I have not forgotten you! Here is the left-handed version of this video:

I hope you find these videos helpful! Remember to visit the Heather’s Craft Corner YouTube Channel and subscribe. You don’t want to miss out on future videos. Also, please like or comment. 🙂

Happy Crocheting!
Heather