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An easy crochet bag for trips to the farmers market or anywhere else you’re spending your day, the Day at the Market Bag works up quickly and has a delightful texture that is surprisingly easy to create. The pattern is available here on this blog post.
This pattern is also available as an ad-free printable pdf in my shop.
The Inspiration
For several years I’ve wanted to start going to farmers markets regularly. I always would forget and, before I knew it, the season was over. This year I’ve done much better and have now experienced the world’s best raspberry jalapeño jam thanks to a local wizard.
While buying your local wares, it’s nice to have somewhere to put them. I hate disposable plastic bags. So, I decided I needed a flexible market bag that could handle a variety of items of various shapes and sizes.
The Day at the Market Bag fits that need! I wanted the bag to be quick to work up, light and airy, but without gaping holes. This bag is just that. It’s light-weight with a beautiful texture, but is stitched tight enough to keep its contents private. It can also easily be worked up over a relaxing weekend.
The Yarn
I’ve always been partial to the deeper, more jeweled tones. I created this bag using Lion Brand’s Heartland yarn. The yarn comes in many beautiful shades. For this bag, I settled on Cuyahoga Valley. This is an inexpensive acrylic yarn with a nice sheen. I love how it makes the texture pop even though it’s a darker shade. The color is not completely solid, but heathered. It adds so much to the look! It also has a wonderful, soft feel to it and great drape. Another perk is that it washes well.
Of course you can use any worsted weight yarn you would like. Yarns do vary, even within the same category. A tip for finding a comparable yarn is to check the yds/g (or m/g). If they’re pretty close, they should be comparable.
The Heartland yarn I used to design the pattern, it is about 1.77 yds per g (251 yds/142g = 1.77).
You could experiment with fibers as well. Or try an ombre yarn for color variation. Many of my testers used a second color for the textured part. Have fun with it!
Left-handed? Check out the left-handed version HERE!
Products used in video:
Yarn: Lion Brand Heartland (Cuyahoga Valley)
Hooks: Clover Amour Hooks
The Pattern
Get the ad-free printable PDF HERE.
Pin this pattern to your Pinterest Board HERE.
Add to your Ravelry queue HERE.
Materials Needed
Worsted Weight yarn (450yds/415m)
*Pictured bag: Lion Brand Heartland (Cuyahoga Valley)
Hooks: I/9 5.50mm & H/8 5.00mm
Stitch Markers
Yarn Needle
Scissors
Gauge & Finished Measurements
Gauge is not critical for this pattern. The bag pictured was 4” = 17 sts / 20 rows (Base) and 4” = 15 sts / 8 rows (Textured).
Finished Measurements will depend on gauge. The bag pictured measures about 14.5” (H) x 14” (W) when lying flat, not including the handles.
Abbreviations
yo = yarn over
ch = chain
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
FPtr = front post treble crochet
Special Stitches
FPtr: Yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around post of corresponding stitch below. Yo and draw up a loop. [Yo, draw through 2 loops on hook.] 3 times. Stitch will be raised.
Invisible Fasten Off: At the end of the round cut yarn leaving a 4-5” tail. Pull loop until cut end is drawn completely through. Thread cut end through yarn needle. In the next stitch, insert needle from the back and through both loops. Pull yarn through completely, being careful not to pull too tightly. Insert needle in the middle of the previous stitch and under front bar of the stitch. Pull through completely.
Instructions: **US Terms**
(UK Terms available in Printable PDF)
NOTE: Pattern is worked bottom-up in the round.
Start with I/9 (5.50mm) Hook
Ch 31
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch, sc in each of the next 29 ch. 3 sc in end ch. Working down the other side, sc in each of next 28 sts. 2 sc in last ch. Do not join. Do not turn. (62 sts)
Rnd 2: Working in a continuous round, 2 sc in 1st st. Sc in each of next 28 sts. 2 sc in each of next 3 sts. Sc in each of next 28 sts. 2 sc in each of last 2 sts. (68 sts)
Rnd 3: 2 sc in 1st st. Sc in each of next 30 sts. 2 sc in each of next 4 sts. Sc in each of next 30 sts. 2 sc in each of last 3 sts. (76 sts)
Rnd 4: 2 sc in 1st st. Sc in each of next 32 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in each of next 2 sts. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 32 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in each of next 2 sts. Sc in last st. (84 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc in 1st st. Sc in each of next 35 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in each of next 2 sts. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 36 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in each of next 2 sts. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. (92 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc in 1st st. Sc in each of next 36 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 2 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 38 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 2 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in last st. (100 sts)
Rnd 7: Sc in 1st st. Sc in each of next 38 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 2 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 42 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 2 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of last 3 sts. (108 sts)
Rnd 8-15: Sc in each st around. (108 sts)
Rnd 16: Sc in each st around. Join with a sl st. (108 sts)
Switch to H/8 (5.00mm) Hook
Rnd 17: Ch 2. Does not count as st. Dc in each st around. Join with sl st. (108 sts)
Rnd 18: Ch 2. Does not count as st. [FPtr in next st. Dc in next st.] 54 times. Join with sl st. (108 sts)
Rnd 19: Ch 2. Does not count as st. [Dc in next st. FPtr in next st.] 54 times. Join with sl st. (108 sts)
Rnd 20-33: Repeat rows 18-19.
Switch to I/9 (5.50mm) Hook
Rnd 34: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Do not join. (108 sts)
Rnd 35-37: Working in a continuous rnd, sc in each st around. (108 sts)
Rnd 38: Sc in 1st 14 sts. Ch 50. Skip next 20 sts. Sc in each of next 34 sts. Ch 50. Skip next 20 sts. Sc in each of last 20 sts. (168 sts)
Rnd 39: Sc in 1st 14 sts. Sc in each of next 50 ch. Sc in each of next 34 sts. Sc in each of next 50 ch. Sc in each of last 20 sts. (168 sts)
Rnd 40-43: Sc in each st around. (168 sts)
Join with sl st.
Fasten off using Invisible Fasten Off.
Weave in ends.
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I would like to make an adult size chunky celtic weave blanket with 10.5 oz yarn. Do you have a pattern for this?
Janice,
I do not have a pattern for it as of yet. I have had the thought to make one, or at least the instructions for one, but haven’t gotten around to it. Maybe it’s time to re-look at making that pattern? 🙂
Thank you for this lovely pattern. Very well written and so easy to follow. Finished product is beautiful!
Thanks Carrie! I’m so glad you enjoyed it.
How many balls of wool do you need for this please?
Thanks Nikki
That will depend on how many yards/meters are in each ball. It will need to add up to 450 yd/415m, although I would make sure to be over that amount just in case. Sometimes it’s hard to find another ball of the same dye lot if you run short. Hope that helps! Happy crocheting!
Would love love this pattern. Havn’t a clue how to get it. Tried several times. Can’t we make it a little bit easier.
Glad we could get the pattern to you! Hope you enjoy it.
From row 8 it says working in both loops, but in rows 1 thru 7 there is not indication of working in back loops.???
I think that’s actually an error. Originally round 7 worked in the back loop only, but after feedback from my testers it was omitted. I’ve corrected it now. Thanks for the catch!
Thanks for the pattern. Can this be made in 100% cotton yarn like Sugar n Cream? I
Of course. Just use a similar weight of yarn and it should turn out just fine with the same dimensions.
Thanks so much for this pattern! I absolutely love it!💗 I’m making one for each of my kids teachers.
Thanks Angela! I love that you’re sharing your talent like that.
Does the beginning tail go to the inside or outside of the bag?
I actually crochet over it so that it’s hidden. You can also weave it in with a yarn needle. If you leave the tail, I’d make sure it’s on the inside of the bag. Happy crocheting!
Having fun crocheting this market bag! Just have a question about round 18 and 19. You say to repeat 54 times. My bag will measure more than 14 inches.
The final size of the bag will depend on your gauge or tension. If you’re crocheting less stitches per inch than the pattern specifies, your bag will be larger. If you’re crocheting more stitches per inch than the pattern specifies, your bag will be smaller. I hope that helps! Happy crocheting!
Hi Heather —
I made this bag using the yarn and color shown in the pattern and love it! Two questions about it: first, how would you suggest the bag be washed and dried? Second, in handling the finished bag I’m finding that the yarn is getting fuzzy. Is that typical?
The answer to both questions is that it depends on the yarn you used. Any yarn should have washing instructions on the label. A synthetic yarn is going to have different washing/drying needs than say a wool yarn. Whether or not the yarn pills or starts looking fuzzy, that would also depend on the quality of yarn and the fiber content. My bags that I have made are a synthetic yarn, so I can wash and dry them pretty easily. The yarn also doesn’t have a tendency to pill, so they look newer longer. I wish I could give you a more helpful answer, but it really is more dependent on the yarn than the pattern. Happy crocheting!
Is there a way to make a larger bag? This is a little small for produce. Thanks 😊
There are a couple of ways to make the bag larger without changing the pattern. You could crochet at a looser gauge or use a thicker yarn. I’d suggest going with a larger hook size so the gauge is more loose. There will be a little more spacing between stitches, but for a produce bag that shouldn’t be an issue. Hope that helps. Happy crocheting!
Row 18 says FPtr in next stitch, DC in next stitch. I’ve watched the video several times and cannot tell where to FPtr stitch then DC stitch. When I FPtr around the DC from previous row, then DC between each FPtr the yarn is bunched up and there are more than 54 stitches. Is there another video that clearly shows where to place stitches? Thx
Hi Kim!
It’s possible that you are doing that first FPtr around the ch 2 from the previous row. That’s not counted as a stitch, but is there for row height. If that’s the case, you’d end up with 1 extra stitch at the end. If that’s not the case, then you may be working your DC in the same stitch as the FPtr. When working around posts, it is possible to work into the same stitch as those top loops are slightly off center from the post. Watch as you make multiple dc in a row. See where those top loops fall. Use stitch markers if you need as well. Mark those first and last stitches. If you need to, try marking every 10 stitches. Hope that helps!
Happy crocheting!
Heather
Hi Heather,
Got it! I was working DC in same stitch as FPtr. Thank you for your help! Thank you for this well written pattern. I am enjoying make this bag.
Great pattern. Thank you for a fabulous tutorial and pattern. 💜
You’re bag has become my go-to for gifts. I made 1 for my mom on Mother’s Day & 1 for my niece on her 1st Mother’s Day. She said it’s great, as she now needs bags not just for herself. And I just finished 1 in blue ombre for my sister for her 50th birthday. It looks amazing! They all love it & I’m planning on making at least 2 more for Christmas presents. I love this pattern & I LOVE that as a beginner-intermediate crocheter I can make it in just 2 or 3 nights! Thank you for sharing it with us!